If you plan to buy a used car, the first step is checking the VIN. The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is the car’s “ID card”: a unique 17-character code that is never repeated on any other car in the world. It tells you where the car comes from, what has happened to it and whether the papers match reality.
What a VIN is
A VIN consists of 17 letters and digits. The letters I, O and Q are never used so they are not confused with 1 and 0. The code has three parts:
| Positions | Name | What it shows |
|---|---|---|
| 1–3 | WMI | Manufacturer and country (for example, W = Germany, 1/4/5 = USA, J = Japan) |
| 4–9 | VDS | Model, body, engine; position 9 is a check digit on North American cars |
| 10–17 | VIS | Model year (position 10), plant and serial number |
You don’t need to memorise these rules — a VIN decoder reads them automatically. But it helps to know that a VIN with the letter O or shorter than 17 characters is wrong or fake.
Where to find the VIN
- In the registration certificate.
- On a plate under the windscreen, in the bottom left corner, visible from outside.
- On the label on the driver’s door pillar.
- Stamped into the body — usually under the bonnet on the bulkhead, or under the front passenger seat.
Check the VIN in at least two places on the car and compare it with the documents. Any difference, even a single character, is a reason to stop the deal. Grinding, welding or paint marks around the stamped VIN are a very serious warning sign.
How to check a VIN step by step
- Ask for the VIN before the viewing. A serious seller sends it without hesitation. A refusal is already an answer.
- Enter the code on AutoStat. See the basic data for free: make, model, year, engine.
- Compare it with the listing. If the ad says “2018, 2.0 diesel” but the VIN shows 2016 and petrol, you have already learned something important.
- Choose the right history report. For cars from America — the USA report with auctions, damage and title; for EU cars — the Europe report; for the complete picture — the full report.
- Read the report carefully and write down questions for the seller.
- Inspect the car and the VIN on the body, then take it to an independent workshop.
What a VIN report can tell you
- The car’s real technical data.
- The mileage history — useful for spotting a rolled-back odometer.
- Recorded accidents and damage, with the affected area.
- Auction sales (Copart, IAA) with photos — very common for cars from the USA.
- The title: Clean, Salvage, Rebuilt, Flood — see what each one means.
- Open safety recalls.
To see what this looks like in practice, open the sample report.
Common mistakes
- Checking only the VIN from the listing. The photo may be of another car; always compare with the physical VIN.
- Trusting a “free check” sent by the seller. Run your own.
- Ignoring small differences — a different year, engine or colour. They may point to a replaced body shell or re-made papers.
- Checking after the deposit. Report first, money second.
A VIN report shows what was recorded in the available sources. It does not replace a technical inspection, but it tells the mechanic exactly where to look.
Conclusion
A VIN check takes a few minutes and is the cheapest way to avoid a mistake worth thousands of euros. Do it before every viewing: enter the VIN on AutoStat and decide based on facts, not hope.
